Hockey Skates Demystified

A previously published version of this article has had over a quarter million page views, enjoy.

Arguably, skates are the most important part of any hockey player’s gear. They are also the most mystifying piece of equipment to buy. Skates have to fit properly and be of the appropriate level or the experience will simply be miserable.

In this article I will review the following, 

1. How to pick a skate that fits properly 
2. Some things you should know about used skates
3. Modern techniques to make skates more comfortable 
4. What sort of feet different brands of skates fit best 
5. How to select the proper level of boot stiffness 
6. When and how to get skates sharpened 

Selecting Skates That Fit Properly
One of the hardest things to understand for players who are new to the game of hockey is the way that their skates should fit. Unlike shoes, skates should offer a snug fit, tight but not painfully so. The worst thing that a skater can do is purchase skates that are too big. If they are too big, they will only get worse as they stretch. Skates that are a little small can be easily fixed. Most hockey shops employ a couple of fitting techniques to enlarge skates. These include: punching – a quick process in which a small and very specific portion of the boot is stretched out; and power-stretching – an overnight process where the boots can be lengthened sometimes up to a size or more and widened by at least a full width.

Skates that are too big are almost impossible to fix. Most people think a second pair of socks will help here. Contrary to what our mothers taught all of us, wearing an extra pair of socks is one of the worst things you can do in a pair of skates. The more room you have for your foot to move about, the more likely you are to develop blisters and even painful, semi-permanent bone spurs on your feet. Serious figure skaters never wear socks. Most wear thin tights no thicker than heavy panty hose would be. Many hockey players and figure skaters forego socks altogether in favor of bare feet. While this ensures a better feel for the ice, it is very hard on your skates. They will eventually smell like rotten, stinky feet and actually wear out faster as they soak up all the perspiration from your feet. I prefer a very thin pair of socks, think dress sock thin.

So the question is how do you determine proper skate size? The first and most important rule in buying skates is to never buy a pair that you cannot try on first. As internet shoppers this probably isn’t what you hoped to hear. Nonetheless, it is possible to buy skates online, but I’d never recommend doing so without finding them in a shop to try them on first. That said, your local shop should be willing to order a pair at no obligation to you if they don’t have what you’re looking for in stock.

Having fitted hundreds of people for skates, I can tell you that it is annoying to have people come in and take up a long period of your time only to tell you they are going to buy the skates on the internet. If you do try skates on at a local shop, you might ask what services they include in the price. I still spend on average at least half an hour with each skate customer. Rocket Skate offers the first 3 free sharpenings, a heat fit and lifetime comfort adjustments (free boot punching). Even when our prices are slightly above the average internet price on skates, by the time you do the math you’re getting a much better at Rocket Skate. We also guaranteed the fit of our skates. Most importantly, if there are issues with your skates we will fix them quickly rather than forcing you to send them back and wait several weeks while it is sorted out.

Often times when you factor in free sharpenings and a heat mold of the boot, the price with shipping on the internet isn’t very different. I charge $12 to sharpen a brand new pair of skates and $15 for a heat fit in my shop, but throw these in for free if you buy the skates for me. Try to factor in the amount of time and service you’re getting before saving a few dollars. If these benefits don’t appeal to you, remember that your local retail shop is NOT a showroom for Hockey Monkey or Hockey Giant.

All of that said, there are sometimes killer deals on the net, and not all players will benefit from all of the services offered by local retail shops. Obviously if you find a pair of $450 skates on clearance for $199, you will be hard pressed to beat that deal anywhere. However, it never hurts to ask your local shop if they can meet the price. If someone find a deal that’s that good, I’m never opposed to them taking it. In fact, if you find a deal that good, I’m going to tell you it’s a good deal and you that you should take it.

So back to trying on skates, it isn’t like trying on shoes. If you put on a pair of skates and they feel as comfortable as slippers, I can almost guarantee that you will have serious issues skating in them. It is important that you can feel the end of the skates with your toes. A perfect fitting on a hockey skate is best described as this:

When sitting with the boots first on and not laced, they might feel uncomfortably short. Don’t panic. First you should kick back into the boot. Kick the heel of the skate on the floor a couple of times to make sure your heel is settled back. Next lace the skates up and make sure they are tight. The forefoot area should be snug, but not crushing. As you get to where the eyelets start to turn towards the vertical portion of the boot, tighten these up a little tighter. This will pull your heel back into the proper position. When laced and still sitting, you might still feel like the skates are too short. Don’t make your judgment yet. With both skates on and laced tight, stand up. You should notice a little less pressure on your toes at this point. Pay close attention though as they should still touch the end of the skate. Now the important part, bend your knees so they are over your toes. You should feel your toes pull off the toecap or still be just lightly brushing against them. This is the perfect length of boot for you.

Keep in mind two things if this type of fit seems a little too short. First the heel pockets of the boots will compress as they break in and actually give you a little more room for length. Second, if by some chance the boots are uncomfortably short after breaking them in, you can still have them stretched for length. Had you erred on the side of buying a pair that was too long, you would have to replace your skates.

If you are unsure of the length even after trying skates on, a good way to double check is by simply taking out the insoles of the skate and standing on them. An adult’s toes should come right to the end of the insole. A child who needs room for growth should never have more than about a finger’s width of toe space. This will get them through about a year without having skates so loose that they cannot skate without their ankles bent. I highly recommend this method of sizing skates for younger children who often do not express how the skates fit in any certain terms.

Now the other factors of width and foot shape are a little more abstract. If you have a full service hockey shop, (by this I mean a place where they fit you instead of handing you a box) competent sales people will be able to recommend skates based on the width of your foot and height of your instep.

The skate fitter should know what questions to ask you to determine the proper fit. If they don’t, this will be up to you as the purchaser to determine this part of the fit. Again, make sure that your skates are snug, but not uncomfortable. Pay attention to the fit of your heel, does it move? Try on another pair. Do the laces feel like they are digging in to the top of your feet? Try another pair. Does the forefoot feel loose? Try another pair. Eventually one will likely feel significantly better than the others did.Used Skates 
I am generally not a fan of putting my feet into something that other people have worn and sweated in profusely. No amount of Lysol can make a pair of hockey skates seem clean enough for my comfort. Nonetheless, there is a pretty large market for used skates. Even if you aren’t worried about some exotic, new foot fungus that you might develop, there are a lot of other reasons to buy a new pair of skates rather than used. If you are thinking about buying used skates there are some factors to consider. 

The biggest reason to buy a new pair of skates is simple. Unless a used pair has only been used for a few hours, it is already broken into to someone else’s feet. Everyone has different shaped feet. In fact, you might be surprised how unique feet can be. The problem with a pair of skates that someone else broke in is that they will never fit you as well as they should. Think about rental skates, they never fit. The simple fact is, dozens of different shaped feet have broken them down. While a pair of used skates will not be quite as bad, they will likely have a number of spots that fit loosely and shouldn’t. 

The steel is another factor. How many sharpenings will you get out of the runners on a used pair of skates before you have to replace the steel? On most brands, new steel will cost you in the ballpark of $50. There are a number of skates out there where it will cost closer to $100. Often times used skates are being sold because they need new steel.

The boot might be broken down. Stiffness is a major factor in hockey skates. Without the appropriate level of stiffness, a boot cannot and will not perform properly. Many used skates on the used market have outlived their usefulness and become soft. If the support is gone, the boot is worthless.

All this said, I have seen some very good deals on used skates. Some shops will exchange a boot that a skater wasn’t satisfied with and then sell the slightly used skates at cost. If you can get a pair that has only a couple of hours on it for half the price of new, it is certainly a good deal. Used kids skates can also be worthwhile. With growing feet, kids are less likely to be affected by the less perfect fit of a broken in skate. Do pay close attention to the other factors, such as the stiffness of the boot and the amount of steel left on the blades though.

How Major Brands Fit 

Bauer has three lines:

The Supreme line skates fit average to slightly wide feet. They are wider in the mid-foot than CCM, but similar in the forefoot. Instep height is low to average. The Vapor line runs a little narrower, fitting narrow and average feet best. Instep height on the Vapors is average.The Nexus (formerly Flexlite) is still the widest boot on the market. The Nexus will fit an average instep height, but even in the D width has been a favorite for skaters with Fred Flilntstone feet.

Graf skates come in a number of different styles which will accommodate numerous foot shapes. The Graf number system designates the stiffness and shape of the skate boot. The first digit on the skate is the boot level. A G or 7 describe an elite level skate. A 6 would be advanced, 5 intermediate, etc. 

The second part of the model number designates the last, or shape, of the foot the boot fits. The 3 is the narrowest skate while the 5 is the same last but 2 millimeters wider. The 35 has the wider forefoot of the 5 and the narrower heel of the 3. The 9 is a high volume skate for players with thick, wide feet. Lastly, the 7 is a special skate originally designed for players wearing an ankle brace. The ankle and foot of the skate are almost independent allowing for the highest level of forward and lateral flex on the market today.

Thus a Graf 709 is an elite level skate for wide, thick feet. A 503 is an intermediate skate for people with narrow to average width feet and a G35 is an elite skate for players with a wide forefoot and narrow heel. Further setting Graf apart is the fact that they are one of the only companies offering most of their skates in 3 different widths, so if you find Bauer Vapors too wide, Grafs in a narrow width might be the best bet.

CCM's current U+ and CL line is something of an intermediate width skate which will cover a fair range of foot shapes. It uses a similar last to the Vector line but fits more narrowly than the discontinued Tacks line did.

Easton skates are best for average width feet. The Easton models have a little bit narrower toes than do some wide models of skates. Their skates aren’t great for players with higher insteps. 

Reebok makes some of their models in three widths becoming only the second major skate maker (after Graf) to do so. Reebok skates fit more like the traditional CCM line. (As confusing as this might seem as Reebok owns CCM and seemed to claim the next generation of would-be -Tack as their flagship skates when they bought the company). 

Modern Skate Fitting 
Up until recently there was a common feeling that hockey skates simply weren’t comfortable until you had quite a few hours of break-in time on them. This was more or less the truth of it. However, in recent years there have been a number of developments that have decreased the break in time of skates. 

Heat-fitting is a process in which the skates are actually baked in a special oven (don’t try to bake your skates at home, they will melt). By heating approved skate models up to approximately 200 degrees, then lacing them very tightly on the skater’s feet, it actually helps to round out the stiff sides and upper of the boot. The boots conform to the shape of the player’s feet. Heat-fitting shortens the break-in period often times by about half. Heat-fitting will notchange the size of a boot significantly. A heat fit will cost $20 - $30 and takes about half an hour. Obviously the skater will need to be there for the process.

Punching is a term used to describe the process for expanding a localized portion of the boot. This method can help with the fit by eliminating hot spots in a boot. If you have a bone spur or a toe that is a bit too tight, punching your boots can eliminate these problems. Punching is done on a manually operated machine. It basically entails a small ball or finger shaped piece inserted into the boot with a cup on the outside of it. By pulling a lever, the skate tech applies pressure and loosens up the localized area. Due to the nature of the equipment used, not all areas of the boot are addressable with punching. Most notably, areas that are right on the edge of the boot (i.e. the eye stays and the cuff), and the top and ends of the toecap are difficult or impossible to fix. Also, the heel of the boot is a very critical part of the skate and great care has to be taken to not over do punching in this area. Punch jobs usually range from $5 to $10 a session and are done while the player waits. It is very important for the player to be available during punching sessions as they will have to try the skates on and it might take several tries to get the punch just right.

Power-stretching entails heating up the boots as for a heat-fit and putting them on a device similar to a professional shoe stretcher. This process can deliver remarkable results, and is often the best-case scenario for people with different sized feet. Power-stretching can easily increase a quality boot by a full size in length, sometimes more. While power-stretching of a boot can also add a full width or more to a skate, it only adds width to the middle and front portion of the boot. The nature of the equipment does not widen the heel. This process usually cost $20 to $35 and takes about 12 hours.

CCM’s FIT system is very similar to the conventional heat-fit, but uses a somewhat odd-looking device to apply pressure to the outside of the boot during the boot’s cooling period. The player, with skates on, puts their feet into the top of the FIT system (a large fiberglass box). When turned on the FIT system inflates air bladders that press against the boots to help shape them to the player’s feet.

Custom insoles are another option that help solve some problems. These can range from $30 to $100 or more and come in a number of forms. The less expensive option would be a heat-molded insole that some shops offer. The more expensive would be the orthotic inserts that a podiatrist might recommend. These work fairly well to put player’s feet in a proper neutral position, lowering fatigue and actually increasing stride length. Insoles will often help with players who have a hard time keeping their skates perpendicular to the ice if their boots fit properly.

There are several models of skates that offer a “soft boot” now. A soft boot, contrary to the name, is a very hard outer boot shell with a soft lining. The advantage to this type of skate is that break in is very short. Rather than the player having to break down thick leather, the softer lining molds to their feet. Nike was the first to create this style of skate and still makes all their models soft boots. CCM Vector and Externo skates have been very popular and are also soft boots. Most recently, Easton introduced the SBX which is a soft boot. All of these are quality skates that are comfortable right out of the box.

Selecting the Level of Boot Stiffness 
There are two tendencies in buying skates that are simply incorrect. One is that the more money spent, the better the skate. While this is true in the purest sense, it might not be the best skate for a given player. The other tendency is much the opposite, in thinking that all skates are more or less the same, so the cheapest one is best. 

Skate price is generally proportionate to the level of stiffness in the boot. Novice skates will generally cost in the ballpark of $150 for a name brand senior size skate. Elite level skates will run $500 or more. Most skate makers use a numbering system to designate their skates by stiffness. The higher the number, the stiffer the skate is. Note that CCM Powerline and Bauer Impact skates are hockey style recreational skates. These are more appropriate to learning to skate than actually using to play hockey in.

The three most important factors in determining the proper level of boot to purchase are player weight, ability level and average hours of weekly ice time. Of these three, weight is probably the most important factor. A child who wears size 6 (senior) skates but is just pushing 100 pounds would never be able to flex a pair of top end skates no matter how often they are using them or what ability level they play at. Conversely, a 275-pound man will destroy a pair of low-end skates in under a year skating only once or twice a week.

Buying too much skate will result in a miserable experience in which the skate will take a very long time to break in, or possibly never break in. A reasonable break in time for skates is 2 to 5 hours of ice time. This can be cut in half by heat-fitting and is highly recommended for top tier skates such as Bauer 8090s and CCM Pro Tacks.

Buying skates that not stiff enough will cause premature breakdown. The boots will actually flex in areas that they should not. In a matter of months or even weeks a boot can degrade to the point where the skater is getting little or no support. Explosive skating is all but impossible in a boot that has broken down. Pinching and soreness sometimes occurs as well.

Sharpening of Skates
Skates are not sharpened by the manufacturer. This is one downside to internet skate sales. I have literally seen dozens of skates a year that players used, but never sharpened. How anyone even steps on the ice without realizing this is hard for me to understand, yet I had one mother tell me her son skated for several months on a pair that was never sharpened. She came back a week later to tell me how much better he was with an actual edge on his skates. Make sure to get your skates sharpened if you buy them online!

Sharpening is something of a personal feel. While some grinds are more common, there are half a dozen different hollows regularly used by various hockey players. The most commonly requested grinds are 3/8” and 7/16”.

The way a skate is sharpened is a little bit confusing at first. Essentially there are two edges on the steel (figure skaters will claim there are four, but that would be like arguing there are two edges on a knife, the right and left . . . semantics). The sharpener actually hollows out the very center of the skate blade leaving high spots on the two outside edges of the blade. The hollow is the size diameter that the section removed from the blade would be if it were a complete circle. Thus, the smaller this number is, the deeper the hollow in the blade and the more pronounced the edges on the skate are.

Goalies are the most varied in sharpening of their skates. A good starting spot for goalie skates is ¾”. However I have sharpened goal skates from 1” all the way to 7/16”. (3/8” is a practical impossibility on goal skates for technical reasons). If ¾” grind doesn’t suit you after trying it I would make adjustments, 1/8” at a time until you find one you like. (i.e. 5/8” if you want more edge control, 7/8” if they feel too sharp).

Player skates are much more consistent with the vast majority of players in my area using a 7/16” grind. Again this is a good starting spot for a new player. It is very rare that new skaters will have problems with this grind as their only point of reference might be the very dull rental skates they used previously. However, if it feels odd, I would suggest the same process as I did for goalies, except in 1/16” increments. (3/8” if you want them sharper, and ½” if you want a little less bite).

Another thing to consider is that a deeper hollow starts sharper, but it is also the quickest to need re-sharpening. Since there is a thinner piece of material remaining on either edge, deeper hollows are more prone to burrs and wear. The deeper hollows also use more steel during sharpening and will shorten blade life somewhat. If the shop sharpening your skates uses the European method and cross-grinds before sharpening, a 3/8” hollow will yield approximately 60 to 80 sharpenings before you need new steel. If they do not cross grind, expect up to twice that amount.

Sharpening frequency is another personal preference. Much of how often you sharpen your skates will be determined by such factors as things you might step on, accidentally kicking the goal posts and even the quality of ice you are skating on. As a general rule of thumb, you will want to think about sharpening your skates after five hours on the ice. Rarely will you go more than 10 hours before noticing that the edges aren’t what they once were.

Summary 
Hopefully, this has been helpful in addressing some of the questions about purchasing your next pair of skates. As a former manager for one of the busiest hockey retailers in the United States and someone who loves to play the sport, I want everyone who plays to have the best experience that they possibly can. Skates that don’t work right are probably the most frustrating thing that can happen. Don’t let the wrong pair ruin your experience. 

If you have personalized questions about skates, please drop me an email. Questions in the comment section may not be answered for several months as sometimes I don't get alerts when they are posted and sometimes I do. 

Stay in the loop with other cool people who know what's happening by liking us on facebook -www.facebook.com/rocketskate




Find us on the web at www.rocketskate.net

© 2012 Scott Noble

All Rights reserved. Reproduction of this article in whole or part is strictly prohibited without the author's prior express written permission.

Ten things you didn't know you should have in your hockey bag

Before you head off to another state or even out of town for that big game or tournament, you probably do certain things. Making sure your skates are sharp, that you have at least one backup stick and double checking that you've packed all of your gear before hitting the road is obvious. But the odds are you're forgetting to pack a little insurance. There are ten things you might not have thought about. Having everything on this list won't assure a victory for your team, but it could eliminate a lot of frustration and disappointment for you.

1. A spare set of skate blades
This one might be the least obvious and possibly the most important. There are a few reasons why sixty bucks to keep a spare set of runners in your bag is a great investment:

Rocket Skate stocks Step Steel, the #1 choice of NHL teams. We carry runners for Bauer, CCM and Graf. Titanium blades (pictured), goalie and Easton runners are also available by special order (approximately 5 day turn time).

First, it's no fun to be on the road, amped up for a big tournament just to break a runner in the first period of the tourney. It's even less fun if the two shops within an hour of the rink don't have proper size in stock. Years ago, I was working at another rink side shop when a kid broke his runner on the first day of a weekend tourney. We didn't stock replacements for his brand of skates there. Having flown in from California to skate they weren't too happy about being forced to decide whether to miss his games or break in a new pair of skates during a four game weekend.

Second, when you step on something and lose your edge, you don't want to end up at the mercy of the fifteen-year-old who sharpens skates two days a month. Blown edges in hockey are pretty common, often as the result of bumping another player's skate blade on the ice. However, a bad sharpening can be worse than a blown edge and there's no guarantee you're getting a good sharpening at enemy ice. Buy an extra pair of runners, keep both pair sharpened up by someone you trust. You can change the blades on most skates in about 10 minutes and you're good to go.

Third, Most skates outlast at least one set of blades. By having a spare, you can rotate between the two pair of blades. This way you don't have to worry about suddenly being taller on the ice when you do have to replace your blades. It's amazing how difficult adapting to 3/8-inch of height can be for many skaters.

2. Skate Hardware

Bauer, CCM and Graf Screws always in stock

A broken runner is a sad reason to miss a game. Something as small as a missing or broken screw is even sadder. Keeping a couple of the appropriate screws in a repair kit in your bag is an excellent idea. I'd recommend a little box with the tools you need to replace your runners as well as the hardware. At a few bucks, this investment is a no-brainer.


3. Helmet Repair Kit

We're fans of Sport Mate's
Helmet repair kit - $9.99

Loose screws don't only affect your skates, there's also your helmet to consider. My first helmet was literally one screw from completely falling into two pieces by the time I realized that there was an issue with it. At Rocket Skate, replacing helmet screws is second only to skate sharpening in the services that I provide. It's just one of the facts of hockey--helmet screws fall out.

Some helmet repair kits are better than others, but they typically have one or two of each part and some tools. A repair kit is something that everyone should have in their bag.



4. A helmet with current HECC CSA Stickers
These Stickers are imperative. If you're playing in Canada they won't let you on the ice unless your helmet has a current CSA sticker on it. Any USA Hockey sanctioned event will also require every player under the age of 21 to an HECC certification sticker. Many leagues outside of USA hockey also require one of these stickers for play in the US.The most important, and overlooked portion of this equation is that the stickers have dates on them. HECC stickers are most important for events played in the U.S. and have an expiration date on them. CSA stickers are most relevant for Canadian events and will have a date of manufacture on them.

You'll need to get a new helmet if your stickers are expired or missing. 

Now call me crazy, but having a helmet that isn't certified seems like a dumb idea anyway. That's your brain in there. Check your helmet's expiration date and get a new bucket if you need to do so.

Howie's Laces are as good as they
come. That's why we sell them.

5. Spare Laces
Laces break, and usually seem to do so at the most inopportune times. the odds are good that the local shop has your size. Of course that doesn't mean that the local shop is conveniently located in the rink, or that you have your wallet handy when you snap one right before the game, or that you have time to stand in line re-lace your skates and get on the ice before warm-ups are over. Last time I broke one it was literally as I was thinking, "These are great laces. I cannot believe how long they've lasted." Had anyone else broken a lace just then they might have been out of luck. As it was, I happen to have the key to Rocket Skate, which is conveniently located rink side.

We've got a multitude of colors in Howie's
tape available. Only the best!

6. Tape
Tape is essential, this you know. You probably also know the guys on your team are tired of you borrowing their tape. Even if you don't care about being that guy, there are a lot of tape brands out there and the quality of the stuff varies frighteningly. Without dropping names of the offenders, the top couple brands commonly stocked at shops, are there because they can be sold at a higher profit margin, not because they are good quality. Grab a few extra rolls before you hit the road so you know what you're getting into instead of once again being at the mercy of the selection where you're playing.

All-in-one jock shorts starting
at $21.99 jr, $23.99 sr. Or go old
school with a cup and
supporter - $11.99

7. Undies
Remember the advice your mother gave you and always wear clean undies in case you're in an accident? . . . OK, this has nothing to do with that sage advice. Owning a rink-side shop, the most common emergency purchase is made after uttering the words, "I forgot my cup," or "I forgot my supporter." 
Two things here: 
1. This isn't something that you want to borrow (or loan). 
2. This isn't something that you want to play without . . . just saying.

Make sure your neck guard is
BNQ approved

8. Neck Guard
If you're playing in Canada you will absolutely need one of these. While USA hockey doesn't yet mandate the use of neck guards, many US events may still require the use of a cut resistant neck guard. Further, USA hockey does highly recommend the use of a neck guard. It only makes sense too. While a skate blade cut to the neck is a rare occurrence, it has the potential to be life threatening. A $20 investment will not only assure that you won't be scrambling to make sure you can participate, it could literally save your life. 

9. Tape Tiger

Seriously, this is easily the most clever hockey
invention since ice. At $9.99, there
really isn't a good reason to not own one.

The Tape Tiger is just about the coolest hockey invention in the rather large, but otherwise mundane, "doodad" category. This handy little device offers several helpful tools that you should have at your disposal. Its main purpose is to cut the tape off your stick, this it does amazingly well. It will cut through blade tape like butter and with a small effort even the thickest knob comes off in seconds. The best part is that it actually curls the tape back making removal of the old tape incredibly simple.

As if this feature wasn't cool enough by itself, the tape tiger has a built in edge stone. I don't recommend any of the hand-held "sharpeners" on the market as all of them work much better at un-sharpening skates. However a side hone can be very handy to take out burrs if you kick a skate blade or step on something. There is also a screw driver built in. Rounding out the utility of the Tape Tiger is a lace hook (which you probably won't need unless you break a finger) and a bottle opener, which might come in handy for post game . . . er, soda pops.

10. Spare mouthguard
Another required item, if you're under 18, the odds are good that you're not going to sneak on the ice without a mouthguard. This is another item that has people running into my shop at the last second in a panic. This seems to be due to the tendency of mouthguards to escape from hockey bags when no one is looking. A spare mouthguard in the bag makes pretty good sense. Again, it's not something you're going to want to borrow and even more importantly, it is something that you're going to want to fit first. You might be able to find a new mouthguard 5 minutes before your game, but are you going to be able to find boiling water to mold it?

Mouthguards from XO, which feature the highest level both custom fit and style on the market. These feature 8 color chips which can be inserted to match your team color - $11.99. We also stock selected Shock Doctor styles - $18 and up

Stay in the loop with other cool people who know what's happening by liking us on facebook -www.facebook.com/rocketskate




Find us on the web at www.rocketskate.net

© 2013 Scott Noble

All Rights reserved. Reproduction of this article in whole or part is strictly prohibited without the author's prior express written permission.

Too Disgusting to "Stay in the Room"

The locker room is supposed to be a hallowed place where guys can be guys and not worry about the repercussions of their actions. There's a saying, "What's said in the room, stays in the room." Really depending on the context of that, it isn't a bad thing. If we're looking at hockey as therapy being able to vent your frustrations without fear of having someone tell your boss you want to punch him in the eye, it's kinda like doctor/patient confidentiality. Honestly, we're hockey players. A broken foot or knocked out tooth is only worth missing a few minutes of hockey (even if we're only watching on television). If we're gonna just tape up a major physical injury to get back on the ice why would we go see an actual therapist for our mental issues when we can just grouse about them to our peers? In that context, "what's said in the room stays in the room," only seems like common sense.

Pee here, not in the shower please!

That in mind, I'm not going to break the rules. Instead I'm going to address the elephants in the room. I'm not gonna name any names, but you know who you are and maybe there's more than one of you. So take this to heart: hockey players, we can be a disgusting bunch, but you've taken it too far.

Disgusting Guy #1 - There's a urinal 15 feet from the shower. It's that thing mounted to the wall that you pass on your way to the shower, in fact. It's white, made of porcelain and if by chance it is being used, there is a toilet right next to it. The shower is not a urinal. Are you so lazy you feel like you need to multitask? Do you think that it's OK to pee in the shower because you do it at home? Do you think we just don't notice the smell of urine and the yellow tint to the water? The three other guys in the shower would appreciate if you acted less like a three-year-old. 

Disgusting Guy #2 - Spitting goes in sports for some reason (especially if you count baseball as a sport). In hockey spitting on the ice is apparently kosher. The floor of the team bench is a pretty gross place for it . . . but you, Disgusting Guy #2 have taken spitting to a new level. You're the guy who hocks loogies on the locker room floor. Do you like stepping someone else's phlegm? Do you spit on the floor in your bathroom? Ever heard of meningitis? Think man! There are people walking about in bare feet and somehow you think spitting on the floor is okay. We'd almost rather have you hit us upside the head with a hockey stick than spit on the floor.

Disgusting Guy #3 - The only good thing is that you leave the room to engage in your odd behavior. It's also the bad thing. The street behind your car in broad daylight is not the proper place for you to change your clothing after hockey. Did someone pee on you in the shower? Did you step in some spittle in the locker room? Are you actually trying to be tagged a sex offender for flashing children and women with your odd decision to change your clothes in public? There's a private locker room which you can use if you have issues with the people and/or actions taking place in the public rooms. Don't terrorize the locals please!

Guys, please think about where you pee and spit please! I'm pretty much the last guy to get angry, I've never punched anyone in all my years of hockey, but Disgusting Guys #1 and #2 make me understand why people get punched. If you don't think that your bodily fluids are disgusting (even though they are), the last thing the world needs is a bunch of old men getting dressed in the street after hockey. Disgusting Guy #3, as long as you didn't tell someone's boss they were about to get hit in the eye, the locker room should soon be safe for you again.

This has been a public service announcement. It might save your life . . . probably not.

Stay in the loop with other cool people who know what's happening by liking us on facebook -www.facebook.com/rocketskate




Find us on the web at www.rocketskate.net

© 2013 Scott Noble

All Rights reserved. Reproduction of this article in whole or part is strictly prohibited without the author's prior express written permission.k.com

New Hockey Skates, tougher than your feet?

OK hockey players, you might have felt left out when I posted about the horrors of breaking in a new pair of figure skates. We all know that breaking in a pair of hockey skates isn't a picnic either. So if you were thinking, "Hey! Where's our article? I wanna know how to make breaking in hockey skates go smoother," well, sob no more. Here it is:

Das Boots

OK, so that's probably grammatically incorrect German for boats, but hey as far as some of your feet go boats is accurate. Yeah, I've seen you out there in your size 13 skates and it's like a pair of kayaks on the rink. But I digress here . . . we're talking about that part of the skate that troubles almost everyone--the boots.

Bauer Vapor X:05 - In stock at Rocket Skate

The conundrum of hockey boots is that if they start out comfortable, they're likely to brutalize your feet for a long time thereafter. Comfortable generally translates to one of too things in skate boots: too big, or too cheap. Here are the issues: Skates have to fit tight to perform properly and they have to offer the appropriate level of stiffness.


So yes, you can find a pair of skates that feel like slippers right out of the box. However, they are going to probably going to be about 2 sizes too big for that to be the case. Skates this big will allow your feet to move around. When your feet move around in the boots, you spend a lot of money on blister pads and a lot of time using the belt sander to remove callous build-ups in odd places on your feet. I have no idea how you're going to treat your bone spurs when they develop. On top of having really ugly feet, your skating is going to suffer since a huge portion of your stride energy will dissipate in the wrenching, twisting motion of your boots as they oscillate in protest on your swollen red feet.

So, the first step in making life easier it to buy the right size of skates. If you're an adult, you need to make sure that your toe touches the end of skate when you're standing straight up. With your knees bent, a perfect fit will have you just lightly brushing the toe cap or pulling slightly off or if. Kid's should be up 1/2 to 3/4 size from a perfect fit so they have room to grow while keeping the skates from completely spinning around their feet.

Reebok 8K - Great heatmodable skates in stock

The other fitting issue is width. You should have some pressure on the sides of your feet, but you definitely don't want to have so much pressure that it feels like the ball of your foot is scrunched up. Make sure that the new skates lock your heel in place. If there is some ankle discomfort, that's not normally an issue. Most people need to have the ankles punched out and it's pretty easy to do. Just make sure you're buying a skate that can be punched out.

Any decent hockey skate these days is heat-moldable (or at least claims to be heat-moldalble). Don't try to bake your skates at home. I've seen a pair that someone melted in their oven--not only was it ugly, but they ruined the batch of cookies they were trying to bake at the same time. Odds are that you're going to get your skates too hot and ruin them, or not hot enough and waste your time. Buy your skates somewhere that fits you properly and have them baked there. Any shop worth their salt offers a free heat-fit with skate purchase. Rocket Skate offers that and lifetime boot punching. (I had a customer a couple weeks ago who would have spent about $180 on skate fitting alone if they hadn't bought their skates from me).

Punching and heat-molding aren't going to complete the break-in process for you. However, they will knock a great deal of time off the process. You should still expect at least 4 or 5 hours of skating before the boots move from mildly annoying to somewhat comfortable.

Holder and Runner

Pretty much every brand of skate has their own blade holder and runner. It doesn't sound like a big deal, but they are all slightly different. Graf Cobra Holders have the most aggressive forward pitch of any brand on the market today while Bauer's TUUK Lightspeed puts the player back on their heels more than its competitors. CCM/Reebok products fall right in the middle.  Runners vary as well with different rockers. Rocker describes the average radius of the curve on the bottom of the blade from toe to heel. The three major brands on the market all use different rockers: Bauer - 9-foot, CCM 10-foot, Graf 11-foot.

This translates to a number of issues that you're going to have to face as a hockey player. Your legs develop muscle memory (gross motor skills) that become a natural part of your skating motion. You don't have to think about how it works, you just do it. When you change the blade and holder combination, it takes some time for your gross motor skills to adjust. The pitch issue is the big issue for a lot of players, especially those moving from a forward pitch to a more rearward one. This issue is pretty easy to fix and is one of the most common customizations that I do in the shop. A pair of heel lifts between the holder and outsole of the skate have improved or flat out corrected the issue for dozens of skaters that I've installed them for.

The rocker isn't as big a deal for most skaters, but expect the performance of your skates to vary slightly with a rocker change. A longer rocker is going to glide better. A shorter one will turn and accelerate faster. None of these rocker lengths offer significant advantages or disadvantages. If you're currently the slowest thing on ice, switching from an 9-foot rocker to an 11-foot rocker isn't going to suddenly turn you into Marian Gaborik.

Insoles can make a huge difference

Sole custom insoles - $39 with
heat molding & adjustments

Insoles can also change the way your skate feels. An increase or decrease in the arch support height may or may not be uncomfortable. However, it will change the relationship between your foot and blade. An arch that is too low can cause pronation (where the skate tilts inward). One that is too high can cause supination (skate tilting outward). Even if these issues don't manifest, we're right back to the muscle memory issue--you've adapted your skating to compensate and other things will feel odd. A pair of orthotics or custom insoles can knock a huge amount of time off your adjustment period to new skates.

In a sport that punishes the competitor's feet between the requisite tight fit of the boots and quick direction changes there's nothing that I can recommend more highly than a quality set of insoles. I've used custom insoles for the last 10 years personally. When you're spending $300+ for skate that come with 10 cent insoles, this is a no-brainer upgrade.

Shock Doctor insoles - $25 at Rocket Skate. These are a nice upgrade from stock  insoles.

Alignment Issues

Alignment isn't a common problem with hockey skates. About one pair of skates out of every 20 to 30 has the blade mounted improperly. Further the vast majority of skates that need corrections are the cheapest models. Still, once in a while even a skate that is set up properly might cause alignment issues for players with um . . . unique feet (that's my nice way of calling your feet freakishly deformed).

A blade that's out of alignment can cause several issues: supination, pronation or yawing (slipping sideways).
If you're experiencing any of these issues you might need your blade adjusted. However in hockey it's always important to put at least 5 hours on the new skates before jumping to this conclusion. If you have serious concerns after you've put some hours on the skates, it's best if the skate technician can observe you skating.

Most shops will look at you like you have carrots in your ears if you walk in talking about needing a blade alignment on your new hockey skates. I've been doing blade alignments for more than ten years. If you have an alignment issue I haven't fixed in the past I would be amazed beyond words.

Bottom line

Breaking in a good pair of skates is probably the most unpleasant thing about skating. Keep plugging away at it and they will get more comfortable. Most skates will take at LEAST 5 hours of skating, but the time frame may be significantly longer with a skater's skill level, aggressiveness during break-in and weight. I generally recommend minimal boot punching and fitting until a couple hours of break-in are completed, but if you are having severe pain, you should have your skates worked on sooner than that.

Most importantly, buy your skates somewhere convenient to have them worked on. If you have to drive an hour to get your boots punched you might as well be on your own. Any good shop will offer free boot punching at purchase. I personally offer free boot punching for life. If you decide you'd like heel lifts or major alignment work, I offer considerable discounts when the skates were purchased from me. Does it make sense to drive across town to have your skates worked on by someone with little or no experience?

Hopefully understanding better what's going on when you are skating in a new pair can contribute to a less agonizing experience.

Stay in the loop with other cool people who know what's happening by liking us on facebook -www.facebook.com/rocketskate




Find us on the web at www.rocketskate.net

© 2013 Scott Noble

All Rights reserved. Reproduction of this article in whole or part is strictly prohibited without the author's prior express written permission.

Decaffeinating the Horror of New Figure Skates

Getting new skates is a terrifying experience for most people. Anyone who has had a pair of decent skates is well aware that they take some break-in time. Sadly, sometime after your skates become comfortable, they start wearing out and need to be replaced. High level figure skaters commonly replace their boots at least once a year. But beyond breaking in boots, there are a number of other factors you should be aware of when getting a new pair of skates, boots or blades. When you're aware of these factors, you can make the transition much less horrifying.

The boots are the worst part, get some help
Obviously breaking in new boots is inescapable. Even if you buy the same model boot you just wore out, you're going to have some level of break-in time. Heat-fitting and boot punching can help to make them comfortable in a reasonably short time. Heat-fittting helps the overall shape of the boot conform a little more quickly to the shape of your foot. Punching is especially effective in fitting of small area such as ankles, toes and ball of the foot. But even if you get the same model you've skated in for the last 10 years, you've got a bit of work ahead of you.


With a heat-fit, expect a minimum of five hours skating time in new boots before they start feeling like something you can live with. That might not sound like good news, but you can pretty much double that amount of time if your boots skip the oven. Make sure you are lacing the skates tight whenever you are on the ice. It's not uncommon to have to stop and lace them up tighter during a session until they start to form to your feet a little better.

Even custom boots costing twice as much as off the shelf models are brutal to break in. Many skaters have had a harder time breaking in a custom lasted boot than they have with name brand models like Jackson and Riedell. With long wait times, low customer satisfaction levels and exorbitant prices, it's no wonder that custom brands like Klingbeil and Harlick have struggled to stay afloat in recent years.

Stiffness is an issue you should consider carefully in selecting new boots. It takes ice time to get your skates to flex forward to accommodate your stride. If you're moving into a stiffer boot, this will take more time. Selecting the proper boot is almost as important as the fit. If you pick a boot that is too stiff it might never break in properly. A boot that isn't stiff enough will break down prematurely. Your coach and pro shop can help with selection, but the major factors weighing into this selection are your weight, what jumps you are working on and how frequently you are skating.


Lastly heel height should be considered. If you've been skating in one brand for a long time, switching is going to add new challenges. Different skate boots have different heel heights, varying by as much as a 1/4-inch. This differential changes the pitch of your skates on the ice. While a 1/4-inch might not seem like a big deal, it can be a huge adjustment. In fact I've done dozens of pitch adjustments for skaters who were struggling with new skates. A correction of 1/8-inch has almost always fixed the problem so consider what a difference twice that might make in a negative way.

The reason this heel height/pitch is such a big deal is motor skills, specifically muscle memory. When you're skating you develop muscle memory. Essentially, parts of skating become second nature, like walking. Boot flex is going to cause some issues with muscle memory as well. However, changes cause muscle confusion. It's not unlike those poor kids who grow a foot in three months and spend half a year looking awkward and off balance in their own body (not to mention that their pants are all too short). Some people adapt to skate changes in a few days or weeks. Others might take months.

Beyond utilizing your skate shop to make sure that your boots fit as well as possible, there's not much you can do to expedite the issues caused by changes in boot pitch. You can wear your skates around the house with your guards on in order to get used to the boot and accelerate the break in process. However, the biggest tool I can offer here is the knowledge that there will be some adjustment time. You might have some issues skating, but rest assured you are not losing your mind or your ability. You're just adjusting.

Insoles can make a huge difference

Sole custom insoles - $39
at Rocket Skate, including
heat molding & adjustments

Insoles can also change the way your skate feels. An increase or decrease in the arch support height may or may not be uncomfortable. However, it will change the relationship between your foot and blade. An arch that is too low can cause pronation (where the skate tilts inward). One that is too high can cause supination (skate tilting outward). Even if these issues don't manifest, we're right back to the muscle memory issue--you've adapted your skating to compensate and other things will feel odd. A pair of orthotics or custom insoles can knock a huge amount of time off your adjustment period to new skates.

In a sport that punishes the competitor's feet between the requisite tight fit of the boots and repeated impact of landing jumps there's nothing that I can recommend more highly than a quality set of insoles. When you're spending $300+ for skate that come with 10 cent insoles, this is a no-brainer upgrade.

Shock Doctor insoles - $25 at Rocket Skate. These are a nice upgrade from stock  insoles.


More things change with Blades than you might expect
There is one "no-duh" item when switching blades--a bigger toe pick is going to increase your odds of face planting. But do you know there are three other major factors that will take adjustment in a new blade? These are: rocker, bulge and toe lift. You might not have a lot of control over these factors when you're moving to a new blade, but at least you can feel a little better about knowing what's going on when you have a few tough days.

The rocker of a blade describes the average radius of a blade from toe to heel. A shorter rocker will make the blades feel less stable from front to back . . . more rocky if you will. A long rocker is more stable. Most figure skate blades feature either a 7-foot or 8-foot rocker. However, while the average radius might be the same as your old blade, the areas where it is most curved may vary. Changes in rocker will require slight muscle memory retaining. Which brings us to the bulge . . .

The bulge is the raised area about two inches behind the toe pick. This is sometimes also referred to as the "sweet spot." The bulge is the area you balance on while spinning. While the rocker of two given blades might be the same, the aggressiveness of the toe pick can significantly change the bulge. A bigger toe pick tends to make the bulge much smaller, while a smaller toe pick offers a bigger area for spinning. The exact placement of the bulge will also vary slightly from blade to blade changing you center of balance slightly on a new blade.

Toe lift can be a big adjustment as well. Toe lift describes how far forward the blade can lean before the pick contacts the ice. It is measured by tilting the blade forward on a flat surface until the pick touches. With the blade in this position, the measurement from the flat surface to the heel of the blade is the amount of toe lift. Toe lift will vary with the length and model of blade. Further than that, most brands of blades are at least partially handmade and the toe lift vary slightly even within the same model and size (sometimes you will even find two different measurements on the same pair). Eclipse is the only blade band I know of that has standardized this for each of it's blade models. So, if you buy the same size and model Eclipse blade, the toe lift will always be exactly the same.

Alignment Issues
Alignment can be a tricky issue. In most cases the blade is simply put where the center of the skater's foot will be in the boot. But all feet are not the same. I've looked at enough to tell you that if yours are normal, that's an anomaly. While 95% of the blades that I mount don't need any adjustments, you might be a five-percenter. That doesn't mean you're weird, it means your special.

A blade that's out of alignment can cause several issues: supination, pronation or yawing (slipping sideways).
If you're experiencing any of these issues you should have your blade adjusted. It's always best if the skate technician can observe you while skating, but if that isn't possible, your coach should be able to give you enough information on what is happening to get adjustments on the right track.

Most skaters who are proficient enough to require separate boots and blades will adjust for a small variance in center of gravity on the skates almost immediately. Larger issues will require an adjustment (this is why we always start with a temporary mount). Extreme issues might require some sanding of the boot to adjust the angle of the blade to the boot.

Bottom line
Breaking in a good pair of skates is probably the most unpleasant thing about skating. Keep plugging away at it and they will get more comfortable. Most skates will take at LEAST 5 hours of skating, but the time frame may be significantly longer with a skater's skill level, aggressiveness during break-in and weight. I generally recommend minimal boot punching and fitting until a couple hours of break-in are completed, but if you are having severe pain, you should have your skates worked on sooner than that.

Most importantly, buy your skates somewhere convenient to have them worked on. If you have to drive an hour to get your boots punched you might as well be on your own. Any good shop will offer free boot punching at purchase. I personally offer free boot punching for life. Expect to make a minimum of three trips to the pro shop for your skates, one for fitting and ordering, one for pickup after mounting and one for your final mount. Between blade alignments and boot punching, it's not unlikely to make six visits.

Hopefully understanding better what's going on when you are skating in a new pair can contribute to a less agonizing experience.

Stay in the loop with other cool people who know what's happening by liking us on facebook -www.facebook.com/rocketskate




Find us on the web at www.rocketskate.net
Authorized dealer for Jackson, Riedell, Klingbeil, Eclipse, MK, Wilson & more.

© 2013 Scott Noble

All Rights reserved. Reproduction of this article in whole or part is strictly prohibited without the author's prior express written permission.